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| AFE Intake Installation Instructions | |
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Tools you'll need: 4mm allen wrench 1/4" socket, nut-driver 10mm socket or wrench Med flat screwdriver Torx bit T-20 (provided) |
Step 1:
Let's re-inventory all that came in your box.
You should have the
filter (blue). A cleaning kit (the box). The
aluminum shield (on left) the black housing, the
billet adapter (round aluminum thing on the black
housing) and a bag of bolts that includes one Torx
bit T-20 (used later). In the photo above I
had already assembled the billet Adapter to the
black housing. Your billet adapter came in a
separate box but assembles with four M6 x 1 x 10 mm
bolts.
The first bit of assembly I did was install the
billet adapter into the housing. This next
picture shows the back side of the housing with the
billet adapter installed.
Step 2:
Installing the housing into the
engine bay
Remember that rubber mount you removed earlier?
Do you see the screws sticking up from where that
rubber mount was? One of those screws will
slip through the slots on the bottom of the aFe
housing. It's easy to figure out which screw
once you start working the housing in. Go
ahead and start working the housing into the engine
compartment. Guide the screw through the
bottom of the housing until it rests on the bottom.
NOTICE - HERE IS WHERE WE
DEVIATE FROM MANUFACTURER
Now here is where I and aFE disagree on what should
be done next. According to their instructions,
you should secure the bottom of the housing with the
washer and nut as you see in the picture below.
They suggest you do this BEFORE you try to get the
billet adapter into the intake duct. It was
impossible for me. I was ready to rip the
entire thing out and throw it away at one point.
I remove the screw and washer you see below so that
I had some 'play' while I worked the billet adapter
into the intake track. Do what you want but I
thought it was worth sharing my experience.
Step 3:
Connecting (inserting) billet adapter into Intake
track
This was the least fun of the afternoon.
Remember that o-ring we mentioned earlier?
Well I found it was IMPOSSIBLE to install the billet
adapter with that ring already in place. I
took it out of the duct and put it on the billet
adapter. Then I soaped that baby up a bit so I
could get it to fit. I bloodied 2 knuckles
doing trying to get them to fit BEFORE I thought to
soap it up. Don't make my mistake :)
So above you can see I removed the
ring, in the next picture you can see it on the
billet adapter, all nice and soapy.
Step 4:
Loosening Intake Duct from Plenum
Notice also above that the aFe
housing is at an angle. This is why I
'unseated' it from the screw at the bottom. I
need the entire thing loose so I could work the
billet adapter into the duct. Once you get
them connected, tighten the hose clamp as best you
can. Now, once these are connected, you
probably noticed that the entire 'assembly' doesn't
rest on the engine bay. It is sort of
'hovering'. If you try to force it down (don't
do it), the billet adapter will 'pop out' of the
intake. This can be VERY FRUSTRATING because
it likely took you 10 minutes or so to get it to go
in. The reason it doesn't rest is that you
have to rotate the entire intake track where it
connects to the intake plenum. To do this,
loosen the screw shown in the picture below.
Now grab the intake where it connects to the plenum
and rotate the whole thing counter-clockwise until
you see that the aFe housing is resting on the
bottom and can now be secured with the washer and
nut supplied.
Now re-tighten the hose clamp around the intake and
plenum and re-secure the clamp around the intake and
the billet adapter.
Step 5:
Re-securing headlight controller and side mount of
housing
The two bolts you removed from the headlight
controller need to go back in. Bolt #1 goes
back in with the aFe shield secured by the bolt.
Bolt #2 as you probably noticed doesn't do the trick
anymore. When we removed the stock airbox, we
took out 1/2" of plastic. Don't worry, aFe
thinks of everything and has already supplied you
with a nylon spacer. As you can see below, the
spacer has been installed and bolt #2 is in place.
Once the two bolts are in, put the black plastic
cover back over the headlight controller and also
reattach the headlight to the controller. When
all is complete, your engine bay should look like
this.
Step 6:
Installing the MAF into the billet adapter
Now it's time to remove the MAF from the airbox
cover you removed earlier. To do this, you'll
need the Torx bit T-20 provided in the ziplock bag
of parts from aFe.
Remove the two screws and gently remove the MAF.
Notice the green o-ring. This provides a very
tight seal so you may have to pull a bit to get the
MAF out. Once you have it out, insert into the
top of the billet adapter as shown below.
Notice that due to the hole alignment, there is only
one way to put this in so don't worry about getting
it 'backwards'. Now secure this with the two
of the M4 machine screws provided.
Next, re-connect the MAF wiring harness. It
should all look similar to this.
Step 7:
Installing the aFe filter
Now, open the box with your filter. Smell it,
it smells good :) I love the smell of new car
parts (ok, enough about me). Loosen the clamp
on the filter ALL THE WAY before you try to slip it
over the billet adapter. Also, when you are
putting it on the adapter, DO NOT GRAB THE FILTER BY
THE SIDES - you will crush the mesh. Holt it
from the back only and work it over the billet
adapter. Once installed, tighten the clamp
with the screwdriver. If you did it right, it
should look like this.
Step 8:
Installing the aluminum cover
This was a bit tricky. I found that putting
each of the screws in a few turns first and then
tightening them down worked. The toughest was
the front right one, it connects to a free 'arm' of
the housing and was a bit difficult to line up.
Keeping them all loose until you have them started
is key to the success. Once you have all
screws started, tighten them down with the 4 mm
allen wrench and your completed installation should
look like this.
Step 6:
Installing the MAF into the billet adapter
Now it's time to remove the MAF from the airbox
cover you removed earlier. To do this, you'll
need the Torx bit T-20 provided in the ziplock bag
of parts from aFe.
Remove the two screws and gently remove the MAF.
Notice the green o-ring. This provides a very
tight seal so you may have to pull a bit to get the
MAF out. Once you have it out, insert into the
top of the billet adapter as shown below.
Notice that due to the hole alignment, there is only
one way to put this in so don't worry about getting
it 'backwards'. Now secure this with the two
of the M4 machine screws provided.
Next, re-connect the MAF wiring harness. It
should all look similar to this.
Step 7:
Installing the aFe filter
Now, open the box with your filter. Smell it,
it smells good :) I love the smell of new car
parts (ok, enough about me). Loosen the clamp
on the filter ALL THE WAY before you try to slip it
over the billet adapter. Also, when you are
putting it on the adapter, DO NOT GRAB THE FILTER BY
THE SIDES - you will crush the mesh. Holt it
from the back only and work it over the billet
adapter. Once installed, tighten the clamp
with the screwdriver. If you did it right, it
should look like this.
Step 8:
Installing the aluminum cover
This was a bit tricky. I found that putting
each of the screws in a few turns first and then
tightening them down worked. The toughest was
the front right one, it connects to a free 'arm' of
the housing and was a bit difficult to line up.
Keeping them all loose until you have them started
is key to the success. Once you have all
screws started, tighten them down with the 4 mm
allen wrench and your completed installation should
look like this.
Step 7:
Installing the aFe filter
Now, open the box with your filter. Smell it,
it smells good :) I love the smell of new car
parts (ok, enough about me). Loosen the clamp
on the filter ALL THE WAY before you try to slip it
over the billet adapter. Also, when you are
putting it on the adapter, DO NOT GRAB THE FILTER BY
THE SIDES - you will crush the mesh. Holt it
from the back only and work it over the billet
adapter. Once installed, tighten the clamp
with the screwdriver. If you did it right, it
should look like this.
Step 8:
Installing the aluminum cover
This was a bit tricky. I found that putting
each of the screws in a few turns first and then
tightening them down worked. The toughest was
the front right one, it connects to a free 'arm' of
the housing and was a bit difficult to line up.
Keeping them all loose until you have them started
is key to the success. Once you have all
screws started, tighten them down with the 4 mm
allen wrench and your completed installation should
look like this.
Step 9:
Smile
After a few hours of driving, re-check all clamps,
hoses and hardware and tighten if necessary.
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